
This lovely coastline of Wallibou, in northwest St. Vincent, has suffered greatly in recent years from both man and nature.
Three years ago, the still-active volcano La Soufrière erupted with a devastating blast that displaced 16,000 residents. Smoke and ash covered the island and closed airspace as far away as Barbados.
Then, only several months ago, the sailing catamaran Simplicity was discovered abandoned here with “copious amounts of blood” covering the interior. Police said the American-owned sailboat was hijacked in nearby Grenada by three West Indian assailants and brought to Wallibou. The bodies of Kathy Brandel, 71, and Ralph Hendry, 66, were never found.
Life continues despite the tragedies here. When I arrived in the Chateaubeliar village yesterday, a fisherman in a rowboat dropped off three avocados as a welcoming gift. Ashore, boys fished with handlines for jack mackerel from the rebuilt village pier. And at midnight, I was awakened by the local church’s gospel singing.



The fishing village of Chateaubeliar. Soft coral thrives on a volcanic reef. This is Deacon; he provides yacht security. Photographs © Jeffrey Cardenas
I could have avoided this small fishing village along Wallibou’s coastline. Guidebooks recommend caution, and not many sailboats anchor here anymore. Instead, my visit to Chateaubeliar gave me a lesson in the power of perseverance and hope.
As always, sailing is not just about the wind and the sea; the places, the flora, fauna, and people encountered along the way are equally important.
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Let this be a time of grace and peace in our lives – Rev. John C. Baker
Why is caution recommended?
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Thank you for reading the post, Tom.
The worldwide sailing reference, Noonsite, reported four thefts of boats anchored in Cumberland Bay during January and February 2023. Historically, there have been armed boarding and robberies, including a machete attack on a boat captain.
The 2024-2025 Windward Islands Sailors Guide recommends locking all doors and hatches when away from the boat and when sleeping at night.
That said, I have received nothing but kindness and courtesy from the locals who live along this coastline.
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Yes, we all need those experiences…. desperate ly
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I agree! We need to learn firsthand that water doesn’t always come out of a faucet and that there are other ways to see the light instead of just flipping a switch.
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As always, thanks so much for sharing all of your wonderful experiences and insight my ‘Sailing Gypsy’ friend!! 😊
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I like the moniker “Sailing Gypsy.” Too bad I am not going to end up in a cemetary because that would look great on a headstone 🙂
Thanks for your kind comments.
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